Friday, January 18, 2008

Part 12: Last Days in Hong Kong



Friday, October 12th: This was to be another day on my own, and so I wanted to try out some more of the ferry routes across the Harbour. I made another visit to the tourist office at the Star ferry so that I could pick up some more brochures. I took the usual ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) to Central; then I immediately changed piers and caught the next ferry from Central to Hung Hom. This is located in the basin located next to the old Kai Tak airport in what is known as Kowloon Bay. In a way, this brought back memories because 15 years ago, it had been one of the most difficult (and exciting) runways on which to land aircraft because of the closeness of the mountains at the north end approach. I remembered too that I had published the operating and maintenance manuals for the Airport’s Instrument Landing Systems back then. How things have changed! How time has flown! What is amazing is the fact that no development has ever taken place in that area. It is still quite barren and open (and being discussed!) I walked around a bit but there seemed to be nothing interesting to see or visit. (I have since discovered that the action happens in the evening at the Wonderful Worlds of Whampoa at the Whampoa Gourmet Place. There they have some 50 specialty restaurants all under one roof. –I’ll save that for next time!)

So I went back to the pier and waited for my third ride. This time the ‘First Ferry Company’ took me across the harbour to the HK Island at a place called North Point. (This had been the district where I had visited the Church the previous Sunday with Wendy and Michele.) The weather was cloudy and the water a little bit rough but a fabulous ride. I recall Jenny telling me that the reclamation projects within the harbour area are so large now that it has affected the water conditions. The waves were larger and the rides less smooth. Then I realized this was what I had witnessed two nights previously when a tug boat sized vessel had come in near the Star ferry wharf in the dark to drop some workers off. The boat made three attempts to dock briefly but had to lay off when it threatened to strike the concrete wharf. Finally one crewman was able to hold the bow with a gaff hook while the workers; two men and two women, made the jump across the gap. The short journey to North Point was also very interesting because of the number and variety of vessels that plied the water or were anchored there. Those at anchorage were cruise ships; one ship had the name in huge letters along the side: It was called “Fashion TV”. But so far, the most impressive container ship had been Hyundai’s; stacked high with new cars.



The jetty at North Point is unique. It was quite long and inside there were about half a dozen open markets where they sold nothing but live fish. This was not new to me but always fascinating. We never get a chance to see (or taste) such a large variety of seafood in this area of Canada. I can recall at least four harbours in South China where customers select a multi-course variety of live fish from any one of a dozen side-by-side markets. These selected fish are purchased and then carried still wriggling in plastic bags into one of the nearby restaurants. There you hand over the bags to a chef who then disappears into the kitchen to prepare and serve the decorative delicious meal; for a reasonable price and in a very short time span.

From the schedules posted on this jetty at North Point, it seemed impossible to get a ferry quickly back to the ancient walled area known as Kowloon City. (I would have to leave that for a future visit as well.) So I grabbed a bus which was just about to leave for Admiralty. It was now gone 11am so I walked quite a distance from Central to the special boarding terminal for the 629 bus to Ocean Park. I had not returned there since 1995 and I could only recall a few of the features of the amusement park. The bus fare included the one price entrance fee to all rides and amusements (HK$ 208). The park maps were extremely hard to follow and there was a lot of new and extensive construction going on. I started the walk to the top of the mountain by taking the four long stages of the outdoor escalator. (I wonder why we don’t have them here? There’snow reason why not! Sorry about that: Must be a typo!)

This park is located on the South side of the Island within sight of Aberdeen and Lamma Island. Rides and displays of sea life are built around a very high headland: But one feature that still remains was the cable car ride that travels almost 2 km in an undulating pattern along the edge of the water but high in the air along the side of the mountain called Nam Long Shan. This has to be one of the most peaceful and picturesque journeys ever. Some visitors make the journey several times during their visit. It’s all included in the price!

Being one of the best times to watch the feeding, I started with the sea lions. Then I had a fast food lunch myself outside. Not only could I see the port at Aberdeen from this high point, I also saw several huge container ships heading out. Nearby I headed for the short line-up and soon caught the rotating tower ride which seemed to be positioned at the highest point on the mountain. (The Ocean Park show featuring dolphins and whales was delayed for about two hours so I gave it a miss on this visit. I had seen it before and it was certainly one of the best.) Instead I saw a great recently constructed display of exotic jelly fish called The Sea Jelly Spectacular. The display, which is very popular, was set indoors in complete darkness; or perhaps total black light. The jellyfish of all sizes, large quantities, unbelievable shapes, and pulsating motion, were floating randomly inside high cylindrical columns of water about a metre in diameter. In addition the room or rooms were walled in mirrors. The jellyfish were illuminated with changing lights of red, white and blue. Therefore only the jelly portion revealed any colour. It was an amazing and beautiful display but very hard to navigate around. Eventually I just used my hands to feel the way because I collided with aquariums and mirror reflected aquariums.

From there I took the cable car ride back to the lower gate entrance. I had seen enough! I was not interested in any midway thrill rides, other than to watch, even though they were quite original and gravity defying. But there was one more place to go! I visited the newly built spectacular enclosures for the Giant Pandas. I suppose there are about 4 of them in four beautiful, brightly lit, indoor enclosures. But these pens are unique. Each of the side by side enclosures slopes steeply from the ‘cage areas’ at the top, down to a perfectly clear and continuous viewing widow at the bottom where the viewing takes place. Each slope is covered with vegetation including a bare tree for pandas to climb, sleep, and ‘fight’. Then there was large heaps of cut bamboo piled around for snacking because they eat, by necessity, loads of it all day; every day. The spectators enter and follow each other around in a clockwise U-shaped line from the entrance to the exit, first in the back row, and then, after turning, in front of the window. The rear line path is much higher than the path for the people against the window: So all can see. There is no rush nor time limit; No restriction on cameras either. The final pen before the turn is now the home of two new cuddly residents: Giant panda cubs, Ying ying and Li li. These were supposedly gifts from the Central Government to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the establishment of HKSAR. They came from my old haunt of Wolong in the mountains of Sichuan where Ping and I have visited three times before. While I was there watching, these two were in a playful and mischievous mood: One climbed up onto the tree platform and lay down: Then the other one followed and proceeded to climb and bite the first one. This turned into a wrestling match with lots of falls. The crowd went wild with delight. (The other pair of Pandas were long time residents. An an and Jia jia were presented to HK in 1999.) I talked to a junior Staff Member who was making an audio tape of her impressions and observations for a University project. So I shared information regarding my Wolong friend, Di di.

Although I was now pretty tired, I found the 629 bus already waiting, and returned to Admiralty. I took the MRT to Jordan in Kowloon and went to the History Museum. Wendy and I had been there before, but I could not remember much of it. Anyway, it has now been expanded into a detailed history of the HK area covering millions of years. The time period is divided into 8 parts with great detail of the original fishing villages, and even more detail of the last two centuries. The brief videos and real life dioramas are some of the best I have ever seen. And Part 8 is really enlightening: It covers the Opium wars; the unequal treaty; the Japanese occupation; followed by the WWII occupation; then the peacetime after 1945; then videos of 1997 and the handover. All of this brought back wonderful memories.

I stayed until the Museum closed and then headed back to the YMCA down Nathan Road. This meant that I would be passing the Building with the very tiny bedroom where I had stayed during the HKSAR handover. What could be a better memory?

Saturday, October 13th: Time was running out: Just two days left to explore and to spend time with my friends. This was to be another very special day because I would see something very new. I was up early: (I am always up early.) But on this particular morning, I walked along to the McD’s before there was any real traffic along Salisbury Road and before there were any number of pedestrians. Even the one entrance to McD’s was still locked. But they apologized. I ate and then set out for another walk along the Boardwalk of the Avenue of Stars. I never tire of this walk! Have I mentioned that before a few dozen times? Early anywhere, there are always several early birds out jogging, or looking for worms, maybe! And there are always friendly people who want to chat or share some experiences, or just to share a smile. At one point, there was a man sitting on a bench and he asked me the time. Then he told me that he was waiting for his favorite fast food to open for Breakfast. I don’t know where! But I soon discovered that he had a company in the USA and he was now living in HK to set up a branch for his company. Right across the harbour we could see the Convention Centre. He wanted to know what I was doing there and whether I liked it. Naturally I was drawn in to tell him my experiences there and especially my first meeting with my four friends in 1995 followed by the handover and all that I have written here. He was amazed and asked why I had not published the story. I was a little bit embarrassed but I considered it to be a personal story. He challenged me by saying; well you might think so but really it is their story too and it should be told to the South China Newspaper. He went away very happy and even excited. Well, I still have not told the story, but maybe my friends could tell it from their viewpoint? Who knows?

Eventually at 9:40am I set out to follow Jenny’s instructions to take the MRT from TST to Mei Fu in the North-West of the New Territories. This is a new transfer point to the KCR (Kowloon-Canton Railway), leading to a third, new ‘Light Rail’ system that I can only describe as Trams on Railway rails: Yet designed so creatively and imaginatively. There I would meet Jenny and Wendy. I arrived in plenty of time; but Jenny was a bit late. There was no Wendy. Wendy was late so she had decided to go to the destination by car driven by her friend. But neither of us had ever been to this new place before: How could we possibly meet? Briefly, we had to change twice on the LRT and we did get lost. We were going to a newly-constructed nature park for the public, called the HK Wetlands Park. It has been built in a marsh area that is huge. In fact, I now realize that this nature reserve itself is probably 100 times larger than the Wetland Park and is, in reality the border between the New Territories and Shenzhen (called the HKSAR BORDER LINE.) But even the Wetlands portion is not small. I also now realize that I had seen this area from the air when I landed at the Shenzhen Airport and had assumed that it was merely fish farm ponds. (The residential area where we had headed is called Tin Shui Wai. Even that is very new. This was all very different and extremely interesting. I was thrilled to know that neither Jenny nor Wendy had been there before: We were all in a discovery mode together. And that is great because it will be another shared memory.

Will I ever get used to those cell phones? When Jenny and I found the Wetlands’ entrance, there was Wendy leaning against the wall waiting patiently. J and W had been in constant communication and had even helped direct the car to our location. The Entrance comprises a very large glass Centre with multiple floors; that permits indoor and outdoor viewing with a very special hands-on exhibition. There are telescopes and binoculars everywhere; free of charge. It is a paradise for school kids and that was proven by the vast number there even on a Saturday.

A pathway wanders through this estate starting from the Centre, roughly in a clockwise direction. But there is a small river and a large lake as well. Points of interest for spotting flora and fauna are along this very open area with nothing to block the vision. The focus points of the natural significance at each viewing point are identified and supported by descriptions, diagrams and even photos. There are also many foot bridges and paths to lead visitors to marsh areas of interest and to wildlife viewing points. For example, these marshes are also on flyways for migrating birds and permanent abodes for year round feathered residents. Therefore in order to see the masses of waterfowl, and tree birds too, they have erected several multistory wooden ‘blinds’ or hides with viewing slots, benches, etc, at strategic locations on the shore of the lake so that we could study the birds in their habitat using binoculars and without scaring them. There were many, many of them perched on bushes as far as we could see! And below the open observation slot would be dozens of coloured photos and drawings showing each bird type for identification. These made an incredible set-up. I can assure you that we spent plenty of time there bird watching. Finally we ended up back at the Centre. Now we had a late lunch in the Centre’s dining area. The great serendipity for me was the large number of different dragon flies, butterflies, and waterfowl that we could see close up. And the colours were as imaginative as a child’s drawings when let loose with a box of crayons or paints.

We returned to Downtown Hong Kong by taking one bus all the way. That too was a joy! It took us via the western Tunnel and the Container Port to Admiralty.

Upon arrival, I said good night to both of them. While I have been moving back and forth through Wan Chai during this week, I have seen a lot of interesting buildings and parkettes, and even road interchanges with parks woven into them. But one interesting 12-storey building was a Church: The interesting feature was that the traditional church structure with spire was on the 12th floor. So I was keen to take a look inside. It was starting to get dark. This was not new to me: I had seen a similar one in Orlando, Florida many years ago, and when I had asked if I could have a tour there, it turned out to be built very high up on the top of a Senior residence. And a Senior had volunteered to show me around. But this had been much higher and, in fact, they were able to see the shuttle launches quite clearly from the Church in the sky. Sadly, my visit had not been long after that tragic failure which they had all watched.

Today, I wanted to compare the Wan Chai Church. I was not too sure where I had seen it, but I started a long walk to find it. I thought I knew the street that it was on. I know that I had passed it a few times on the bus and had noted the name of a street that was west of the Church: And at another time I caught sight of the name of a street to the east of it. I feel somewhat foolish telling you this but I walked for almost two hours up and down (and I mean up and down because this terrain slopes steeply to the mountain.) I even got trapped in a small community park with no exit in the direction I wanted to go. But, Hey! Every journey has fascinating no exit side trips. The building I was seeking was not quite as high as the adjacent structures; therefore, even on streets high up it was hidden. Finally I arrived at a point where I knew it had to be; but it was not there. I could see both ways along Queenway Road; and yet nothing. So I gave up and climbed the steps to the pedestrian crossing which led over to the other side. Dumb, dumb, I was standing right under the Church: The footbridge had obstructed my view. Here I was at Fleming and Gloucester. I had no idea what the religion or denomination was, so I went in. There was a man at a desk. He told me that it was the Church of the Latter Day Saints (or LDS). And it was not even a church: It was the LDS headquarters for a handful of their Churches in HK. And the building that was fashioned like a church, was not so: It was merely a board room and only accessible to Board members. I left rather disappointed; but there was definitely a powerful message and warning there for me and others.

When I arrived back at the Star ferry, there were large crowds of people heading towards the waterfront. It was still only about 6:30 pm so I grabbed a quick food sandwich (OK, it was McD‘s fast food. Over there they were trying a new supper at a discounted rate: It was called a Teriyaki Burger. So I tried one. It was delicious! (Ok! So I’m being somewhat economical with the truth! I had tried them several evenings and they were great.) I had a little time to kill; so I sat there and wrote the Saturday diary notes from which I am creating this description now! Then I headed across the bus turnaround to the Star Tower and harbour to join the crowd gathering along the shore and the Avenue of Stars. It was now starting to rain gently and people were sheltering. (But being a ‘mad dog’ or something, I don’t mind that rain: especially when the weather is hot. In fact it is extremely refreshing. So I stood in the open. I was joined by another ‘Mad dog’ presumably. His name was Scott. He was the President of a Bio Tech Company in San Diego. Then after introductions; me from Ontario and he from Detroit originally, it proved my hunch! He was a mad dog too! ) We talked a lot about our experiences in China and how much we loved HK. But we still could not figure out why the crowd was assembling. As time ticked away, I realized that I could stay no longer than about 7:30 because I was meeting Fiona, the fourth gem in the family of friends. When I reached the YMCA Hotel, I asked at the desk. They told me there was to be a fireworks display as they were celebrating the 300th day prior to the opening ceremonies for the 2008 Olympics. So I headed up to my room and changed ready to meet Fiona. I realized that I would never find a good spot on the boardwalk, so I went around the 8th floor corridor until I could find a window facing the Opera House and the Harbour. Sure enough I found one and right on 8 pm, the Symphony of Lights Show started and the fireworks burst right above the Theatre out over the water. I really did have a great seat (standing). When the final flurry of bursting stars ceased and all was dark and silent, I headed down to the lobby and waited for Fiona. To my surprise, she had invited her Brother whom I had not seen for perhaps 9 years. Fiona’s Mum and Dad had, on two occasions, taken me to a large party of the Parents to the fabulous seafood market on the waterfront at Sai Kung in the NT.

Tonight we went into a great restaurant in the Mall near my hotel and shared lots of old memories. Life could not be better! Believe me!
(The following link provides three Photo albums: 12.4 is the Avenue of Stars; 12.5 is the HK Wetlands; and 12.6 is the Helicopter ride around Hong Kong.)


http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingSignin.jsp?Uc=150c1up1.c7ai7c31&Uy=-nbp7lc&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&UV=815432849093_691362682605

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?Uc=150c1up1.c7ai7c31&Uy=-nbp7lc&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&mode=fromshare&conn_speed=1

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?Uc=150c1up1.aqg3nuzh&Uy=jy18u0&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&mode=fromshare&conn_speed=1


Sunday, October 14th: This was to be my last full day. I had planned big things: It was not to be a sad day! I set out early and wandered back up Nathan Road drinking in all the Sunday morning sights and sounds. I had decided to be alone and to visit yet another familiar Church, the Anglican Church of St Andrew’s. I had been there several times before but not in recent years. Although it looked the same; old and distinguished, standing high above the side walk, I could sense the history it had witnessed over the last Century. It too has changed inside. It had become an agent of change under the pressures of the electronic media which now govern every service in China. Motorized screens descend silently on cue; and a classical quintet support the organ music. Graphic art experts project words and pictures to enhance the hymns and accompaniments. But of course, the Nave is still lined with those large roof supporting columns. This calls for other appropriately placed flat screens as repeaters for those worshippers whose views are obstructed by the columns. Then there was something quite different: When it was time for the Message, I was expecting the presiding Vicar to speak. But he just sat down. Then a homemade video was shown: The Senior Minister, who apparently came from the UK originally, had been called back to England for a family funeral. And so he had given an explanation followed by his message via the TV media. To say the least, it was very intriguing and interesting. It was certainly creative and well produced because the video background was the very same view that we had live in front of us. He had been filmed in the same pulpit. Perhaps I have not described it very well, but I can assure you that it was quite unique.

After the service, I met with a few of the members and then wandered around the familiar streets and parks for a final view. Time was passing very quickly: The Si hua and I had planned to meet at the desk of the concierge in the foyer of the Peninsula Hotel at about 2:30 pm. I was worried because I had phoned in at 8:30 am to receive the weather report for the afternoon. It did not look too good: The smog had moved in from the Zhu Jiang but there was a possibility that it might clear. This was to be their very first helicopter flight and it was certainly my first over HK. There had never been any for the public until the time that the Gambling moved into Macau. Now the Helicopter Company offered options of three different routes: Short, Medium, and long. I know I have been spoiled by helo-ing over numerous cities all over the globe, and yet I am still thrilled to witness many wonders looking down from above. (But I really cannot understand why the majority of people refuse to take this opportunity. They can be life changing memories and experiences. I urge you always, to try!)

And here in HK, this spine-tingling flight begins right above the 44th floor from the roof of this fabulous historic hotel. And whom better to share it with but these four friends. We had to wait in the lobby quite a while because they had fitted in some other flights first. But the Palm Court Orchestra was playing and the huge tea room was packed with Sunday visitors. Then there was a delay while the ‘copter went to get fuel. But the organizer met us and took us up to a beautiful vantage point from where we could see the entire harbour and ships (except for the mist.) But for flights in Helicopters the best view is always looking downwards: There is seldom any reason to look horizontally: The captivating detail is downwards. My concern was with the Pilot: I had no fear regarding his flying skills but would he be a good guide in English and not Cantonese? Of course, Pilots communicate with their Tower everywhere in English: It’s international IATA. Before we started, another host showed us a short movie of the plane plus the seating. He explained the headsets and Mic so that we could talk to each other and the pilot. They also showed us a well documented photo book of HK from the air. These are the views we would see. It was a large book entitled ‘Over Hong Kong’. Then, like good parents, we were encouraged to take a bathroom break. (I was also advised to make the flight a shorter one because of the inclement weather. But there was no way. I have flown over most major falls with their mists and drizzle! This was to be our parting memory. I told them this and they agreed.) Then the Pilot walked in and announced that it was time to go. Why had I worried about his language skills: Andrew was a Canadian from Calgary. He learned helicopter flying there and received his licence there too. Then he saw the Ad for this job and was accepted: He has been over there three years and loves it.

He left us to go to the plane: Then we were called by the host and another Marshall to follow quickly out of a door, up a flight of stairs onto the roof. The rotor was already spinning causing a gale slipstream, and we each knew precisely which entrance we would take. I was sitting by the Pilot: The four girls were on a single bench type seat right behind us and slightly higher so that they had clear vision and could each take photos. The rest is all glass. Rapidly we were all strapped into waist and shoulder harnesses and the headsets placed comfortably and the mic set. I could see the safety fence around the roof perimeter being opened outward so that it would lay flat. Andrew said OK! And we lifted straight up, hovered, and headed east towards the Convention Centre and past the old Kai Tak airfield in Kowloon Bay. Although I am familiar with HK as a tourist, I am not familiar with details from the air that are passing too quickly. But the shipping is always exciting to see. Soon we were heading North along the coast near Sai Kung and on up towards the Border and Shenzhen. Another delightful part was to hear the excitement from the back seat as they spotted such intriguing things as the apartments where each one lived or buildings and parks that they knew but only from ground level. They and the pilot were sharing lots of information and the digital cameras were clicking and flashing red hot with photos. There was one other fascinating aspect: The Pilot was in contact with the traffic control way over on Lantau at the International Airport: About every ten minutes he confirmed to them that we were crossing some imaginary line into the adjacent flight zone. However, the mist was heavy; visibility was technically poor but he was flying the ridges and peaks. This was extremely exciting: One felt as if we could reach out and grab a handful of grass: It was more like a horseback sensation than a dull airline. He received word that the Tian Tan Giant Buddha and Po Lin Monastery were getting very foggy. I asked him if he could continue to navigate along the Mountain ridges just to see the Famous Buddha from above. He said OK!

The flight continued right up to the Shenzhen Border. I could see many of the features that I had visited ten days previously. It was unbelievable and so exciting. We were flying westward now. Then again I could see the Wetlands and the Light Rail system. I could also see why I had mistaken the marshes for fish farms. From there we saw the huge Container port and I knew we were crossing to Lantau and the Silver Mine Bay. But the journey that had taken an hour by bus was just a few fleeting minutes. I could see the huge Shek Pic Reservoir that I had seen previously from the Buddha and the Walk of Wisdom Posts. I shouted excitedly that the Buddha must be near. The Pilot told us to look up to the right on top of the high Mountain. And there sat the Buddha with his back to us. None of us had realized just how high up the statue was: (Maybe even some 700 metres.) Somehow the pilot flew so close to the mountain and reached the top. At this point, the Buddha was off in the distance, so he flew a large radius so that each of us could see and click cameras. Then we headed back east. Soon Lamma Island came into view and the seafood restaurants too. On the left were Aberdeen and its guardian island at the mouth. From here I could see we were approaching Ocean Park and we flew right over highest point with the Rotating Tower ride that I had taken, followed by the Cable car. Out to the right and close by I had a great view of Repulse Bay and its familiar waterfront condos; and further east I could see clearly Stanley Market and Stanley Bay.

We were now crossing the Island east of the Peak. I do not know whether he always flew this route or because he remembered where Jenny and Wendy worked in the China Bank Building and HKSB: But he turned sharply to the west and flew right over Admiralty and Central. This was truly memorable. Then another right turn and we were heading down for our landing onto the roof of the Peninsula Hotel. What an incredible flight: What an incredible and skillful pilot!

It took us all some while to recover from this experience: What stories to tell! What a new view! There was one more thing to do apparently: The girls had arranged that we would have a group photo up in the flight room where we had started. And so we did.

When we reached the road, we headed along the Avenue of the stars again.

I had told them about the Waterfront New World Hotel where I had stayed on my first visit 20 years ago. It was different now but they took me for a walk that way and we had a high tea in the former Regal Hotel; overlooking the Boardwalk. This was truly luxury but a great farewell present. Then we walked back slowly to my Hotel and a last goodbye for this visit. (Yes, I want to return in a couple of years at the latest!)

They were in a hurry to disappear now; I don’t know why! But Wendy, and another friend and I were going to head out for a final supper together. After supper, when I returned to the YMCA, Wendy then said goodbye. I went to my room.

That is when I discovered what incredibly organized and uniquely professional friends I have. There on my bed was a rather large, neatly wrapped present. When I opened it I realized how great they were and how much love they had for me. Inside was a brand new copy of the very same book of aerial photos ‘Over Hong Kong’ that they had only seen for the first time prior to the flight. Not only had the found it, purchased it, and wrapped it in those hours while I had supper, but there in the front of the book was a mounted copy of the photo of the group taken after the flight in the flight room. I still have no idea how they achieved that; nor how they even thought it up and planned it. Yes, Wendy and her supper date were my decoy. Yes I cried! What can I say but thank you?

Monday, October 15th. I had plenty of time before Flight time. So what else to do but to have breakfast; walk the harbour and Avenue of Stars; and to take lots of photos. Then I packed, checked out; took one last read of the inscription in the lobby which was a copy of the Nestorian Stone in Xian; and get a cab to the West Kowloon side terminal.

Hong Kong is again, so different from elsewhere; they always have the customer’s interests up front and centre in their minds and vision. All over the world when we are taking an international flight, the rule is that we must check in typically two hours before flight time. But there in HK, the two hour wait commences BEFORE we make the journey to the airport. So while I am still in Kowloon, (or alternatively on the Hong Kong Island Terminal) I check in at the appropriate flight counter (one out of about 37); check my baggage through to Toronto; obtain my boarding pass and baggage checks. I purchase my train ticket on the luxury remote railway; that will cross two of the world’s longest and foremost Suspension Bridges (the longest being the Tsing Ma Bridge,) to Lantau and out to the Chek Lap Kok Terminal; (all constructed on an artificial Island).

Now I can relax, clear C & I, have a wonderful meal at the airport, wander slowly past all the stores; until I reach the gate. It was now late afternoon. I would be in Toronto in just three hours later (plus the 12 hour time zone difference).

I really have no idea which way we flew. It was non stop and dark. I know the flight path took us past a few bright stars and a moon but I am not sure where they were.

Fortunately I had missed visiting one feature at the airport: The Sky Plaza. This is a large and spectacular entertainment centre. I say ‘fortunately’ because it is always good to leave some special thing unseen and unvisited as a lure and carrot to encourage a return trip.
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Thank you so much for staying with me over these twelve diary episodes. I have enjoyed travelling with you on this second of two journeys: My first one was real: the second one has taken place in my memory. I truly hope that you will be able to travel to China yourselves for the first or nth time very soon: You won’t regret it. Neither will you be the same person when you return. And if you are privileged and honoured to gain even one friend in China as precious as any of mine, you will surely change your opinion and true feeling towards that country, their cultures, their languages, their history, and their food. People will then say that you have a drop of Chinese blood coursing in your veins. Let it happen; because then you will develop a wonderful blindness that fails to allow us neither to recognize nor to be aware of any differences. There is nothing more rewarding in life.

LES Vivian


Websites for HK airport and Bridges to HK airport.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hong_Kong_International_Airport
http://dsc.discovery.com/convergence/engineering/airport/interactive/interactive.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airport_Express_(MTR)

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