Saturday, Oct 6th. I took the ferry from Macao to the relatively new dock off shore in Victoria Harbour. I was now sailing into very familiar territory: But just like all of China, familiarity reveals nothing but tremendous change. After passing through C&I, I caught a taxi and crossed over from the Island to Kowloon under the western tunnel and eventually arrived at the YMCA on Salisbury Road in Kowloon. I was now back in Tsim Sha Tsui (TST). This was to be one of my longest ever continuous stays in HK lasting for nine nights: Time for renewal of long friendships and more discovery paths. There are so many different themes to follow in this amazing territory.
In one way, HK is not very different from many other places in the world where a spectrum of people, from a spectrum of cultures, and for a spectrum of reasons too numerous to identify, come to make it their home. It really is multicultural. And surprisingly, the primary focus is on economics. For this reason, I think, one never sees any evidence of politics. For 150 years, as a result of the treaties that concluded the two Opium Wars, HK was ceded to Britain and governed by her from Westminster through a series of Governors and Administrators.
There are really three parts to this territory; placed like a triple-decker sandwich from south to north; with maybe even a fourth part; an Island to the west called Lantau. Then there are dozens of small islands scattered all around; (235 listed). The first part is Hong Kong Island on the south side of Victoria Harbour. On the North side of the harbour in the centre of the sandwich, is the mainland area of Kowloon. Adjoining Kowloon to the North is the area known as the New Territories which extend north to Shenzhen in Mainland China. The east end of the harbour has a very narrow passage leading ultimately to the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean reached between Taiwan and the Filipinas; then to Japan. The west end of the harbour is quite wide and opens in a larger channel towards Lantau Island; and on to the Estuary of the Pearl River towards Viet Nam. Ultimately, it leads to Malaysia and Singapore. (Very roughly, the area of this territory is equivalent to 30km x 40km or slightly smaller than the Greater Toronto Area (GTA).)
Very briefly, two languages are spoken here, Cantonese and English. Because of the previous British Governance, traffic drives on the left. The centre of HK Island and most of the Territories and Lantau Island are covered with mountains. The scenery is spectacular. Also of interest, perhaps is the fact that the names familiar to Westerners, such as Hong Kong, are in Cantonese. The name ‘Hong Kong’ means Fragrant Harbour: In Mandarin, the name is Xiang gang. Similarly, ‘Kowloon’ means ‘Nine Dragons’; a name given it by one of the first Emperors to visit there: In Mandarin, the name is Jiu long. Finally, the New Territories, Sen Gai, is Xin jie in Mandarin. This is what I have been told anyway, and it was not on April 1st either.
When the British took over HK, it really applied to the Hong Kong Island only. Shortly afterwards that power extended to include Kowloon. It was not until 1898 that the New Territories were secured by a 99 year lease, set to expire on July 1st, 1997. (Way back in my high school days, we learned a little about that lease, but 50 years was such a long way into the future, it was not worth thinking about nor was any change expected to happen. But it did!) In 1984, discussions began to take place concluding in a signing of a hand-over agreement between Deng Xiao Ping and Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher of Great Britain in a special room within the Great Hall of the People, Tian an men, Beijing. In theory, the transfer only applied to the leased area, but without it, the political opinion was that the entire area was to remain combined. We should realize that most of the food consumed in HK comes from Mainland China. (Quite a number of years ago, I recall hearing a statistic that 50,000 pigs are imported weekly.) Probably much of the drinking water comes from the mainland too. Furthermore, the Hong Kong people are predominantly Chinese; therefore I am sure they were relatively happy to have their Island reunited with the Mainland under these special conditions.
This hand-over concluded the major Chapter in Deng’s vision of the new economic region venture for China. Deng passed away in February, 1997; four months before the day of the final hand-over on 1 July, 1997. He was 92.
And what a day that hand-over was! I had climbed a tree to watch Prince Charles and Governor Chris Patten board the British Naval ship, say farewell to many guests, and sail west to Singapore. On the day following, they held one of the biggest fireworks displays I had ever seen. And now 10 years have passed and a vastly different place has been created economically. Now there are whole areas occupied by newcomers from several countries. There are also many HK born citizens who used their British passports to gain immigration entry outside HK, but who have now returned to their former homeland. One recent newspaper indicated that some 100,000 Canadians are resident in HK. One area at Repulse Bay is saturated with US residents. Another area to the east of Victoria Park, Causeway Bay is the home of many Islamic people. And the territory’s population is approaching 7 million.
For me, perhaps the greatest attraction there has always been the sea. (I was born in a seaside town and spent my first 18 years breathing salt-laden air. Therefore HK is precious.) Although there are subways (the MTR mostly; but also the KTR, and now a new Light Rail System,) and traffic tunnels under the harbour, the most prominent people movers are the famous Star Ferries and other ferries (New World First Ferry) that traverse between HK Island and Kowloon across the harbour non-stop: And equally as frequently out to the major Islands. I am addicted to the five main harbour ferries. (Even more so now that I am a senior, and can travel free.) One can never tire of the arrival views each side: Those buildings and the skyline are unique. For example, on the Kowloon side is the Peninsula Hotel. Pictures of early history show it in its formation. Today it is still one of the most lavish and expensive accommodations still reflecting the British era with its Palm Court Orchestra and afternoon teas. But for about five years now a huge multi-story extension has sprung up from its original roof, and its new roof top is now the Helicopter landing pad.
(For the purpose of description, let me introduce a few of the districts. The district surrounding the Star ferry in Kowloon (the lowest point south) and much of the Shopping area as well, is called Tsim Sha Tsui (TST). Opposite TST along the Shoreline of HK Island from west to east (right to left when viewed from TST), are three districts, but I would prefer to use the MRT station names: Sheung Wan, Central (the Financial District), Admiralty (the former British Navy area), Wan Chai (the location of the formal hand-over), and Causeway Bay.
Although I showed favoritism in describing the Ferry system, I do not want to neglect telling you about the HK MRT (or Mass Rapid Transit). It is not a new system by any means but it is updated and extended constantly with bright Stations and many stores. In my opinion it is still the best in the world that I have used; and for a single group of reasons. It is easy to see that the designers and creators had one focus: What is best for each traveler? I am not sure how to describe this, but I will try. Imagine if you will a subway line running east to west along HK Island. Then imagine a second line running north to south in Kowloon: It passes deep under the Harbour and stops when it meets the east-west line. In most networks, these two lines would be at different depths underground, and to change from one line to the other would involve walking and stair climbing by the passengers from one platform to another. It is also made difficult because passengers would have to figure out and follow signs to arrive at the appropriate platform for transfer in the direction in which they wished to continue their journey.
But in HK they have made it easy; very easy. They have planned for two stations to accomplish the logic. I have just described the geography map for a train on the red line travelling North to South from TST. That train will turn west and pass through Admiralty Station first, and then terminate at Central Station, parallel with two stations on the Blue line from East to West. This line also has two stations named Admiralty and Central and coupled together with the parallel line. If a passenger intends to continue the journey eastward on the Blue line, they are instructed by voice and electronic map while on the red line train, to get off at Admiralty Station. They will then walk from the train through the nearest archway to the east-bound train waiting on the Blue line. Conversely, if they are intending to continue westward on the blue line they are instructed by voice and electronic map while on the red line train, to get off at Central Station. They will then walk from the train through the nearest archway to the west-bound train waiting on the Blue line.
Naturally they can also exit the subway at either destination. There are three separate primary MRT lines, each with pairs of stations at intersecting points to accomplish a speedy transfer. This is also vital in HK because of the density of passengers on each train.
It is my experience that every visitor to HK is welcomed as a friend; indeed an old friend. One can feel very much at home there, and safe. For me, it became especially friendly more than 12 years ago. Let me tell you briefly about my four friends because they were the major part of this latest visit: They always are! And over these 12 years, they remain a very vital part of my life.
In 1995, three of us from Toronto were crossing on the Star Ferry towards Central. There were four young school girls sitting in front of us. One of them turned around and asked us if they could interview us for a class project. (I guess you could call us tourism guinea pigs!) I said to Jenny that they could on one condition: They had to write and tell us how the project turns out and to keep in touch. They interviewed us and took photos. There was Jenny, Michele, Wendy, and Fiona. As it turned out, they were good to their word. They wrote letters, sent photos, and gave us lots of information about their school life. (I believe I saw them again in 1996; but I cannot really remember.) I know that I was privileged to visit their High School and to meet their Principal. They were very clearly gems that any school would love to have: It covered the Academics aspect; but also sports. This School took only the top achievers and virtually all teaching was English language immersion.)
But as the handover approached there were many mixed feelings about the future everywhere. I had an idea that perhaps we could travel to Beijing together to see their new Parliament; the Great wall, and then to Guangzhou to see the memorial related to the Opium Wars which resulted in the British take-over of HK. (It was going to be hard to get accommodation in HK for that period.) Going back to Part 1 of this diary, I introduced the readers to my Friend, Bei fei. She was the one that organized this dream for us. She found a small room on the 8th floor of a building in Kowloon. (Only part of that floor comprised the hotel.) I make a point of visiting that building every time I return.) Bei fei also arranged the package that involved this brief tour of familiarization to mainland China.
I guess I was in HK for several days prior to the hand over, and also for about four days afterwards as the new regime entered. In that period I met the girl’s Parents; and they approved the journey north. It was about three weeks later that I met them in Beijing.)
Since that time I have returned to HK four or five times, and watched my friends develop into amazing career achievers. They left high school as star pupils; went through University, and one, Wendy, even did post graduate work twice, in England. Jenny is a Corporate Lawyer in a leading international firm. Michele is a medical Doctor, now specializing in Intensive Care at one of the major hospitals. Wendy is in some way involved high up in Middle Management in the HKSB with her computer fingers seeking and exploring high financial instruments world wide. (I have no idea what that means.) Fiona is also in a famous Bank but has now been sent to obtain her MBA. You would be right to imagine that they are four geniuses and four world travellers: I think they are four precious gems.
The YMCA in Kowloon is a famous hotel, located next to the Peninsula Hotel, with great views of the harbour. It is gradually assuming the name of Salisbury Hotel, taking that name from its street address. I checked in on Oct 6th, after lunch, and then started to walk along the waterfront boardwalk at the harbour. It is now called the Avenue of the Stars and reveals the names of famous HK Stars who have been honoured. This Kowloon waterfront has changed significantly; even the famous hotels from those early days have been modified and revitalized. It seems that everywhere, street crossings for pedestrians have been replaced by subterranean tunnels that not only cross under the busy intersections but also link through underground Malls and public buildings. This Boardwalk and similarly the promenade on HK Island, have become the viewing stands for every special event. It can accommodate the most people and viewing is very good for Firework displays plus the frequent decorated boat parades; backed up by the Laser illuminated buildings. For example, one night, as a returned on the ferry to TST, I could see crowds gathering along the Boardwalk railings. I figured that whatever was happening would begin at 8 pm when the evening Laser show was scheduled. It was still early and beginning to rain. I could not find out the reason, so I returned to the YMCA ready to meet my friends as planned for supper. When the Fireworks started I found a window high up overlooking the Shoreline. It was great. By then I had discovered that this was the celebration of the 300th day before the 2008 Olympics opening ceremony in Beijing.
That night, I met Michele and we returned to the Boardwalk where there is a complex comprising a Science Museum with IMAX, a planetarium, Symphony Hall and Opera House. But there is also outdoor entertainment at various locales along the Avenue of the Stars. This is also the best viewing spot for the floodlight and laser show every night at 8 pm. It involves most of the famous buildings along the Island Waterfront from beyond Finance Square in the west (to the right) all the way to Wan Chai to the east. It seems at first as though every building is illuminated to compete with spectacular patters and commercials; but then it becomes obvious that many of the mobile patterns are synchronized. And there is music of every kind. One would imagine that this is a young people’s city; and so it is! But that applies to the young at heart, not only age.
And HK is also a dining Mecca. One gets the impression that very few people eat at home: And the menu variations are enormous. But it is more than that; far more. There is creativity as well in décor, menus, and service. Let me give one unique example. Off shore from the South side of HK Island is a smaller Island called Lamma. It is famous for its fish restaurants; and why not! An entire row of these seafood specialist restaurants are built along the shore: The customers are accommodated in open air areas built on pylons so that they jut out into the sea. But that is not all. When you make an evening reservation, it includes the transportation by ship all the way from Victoria Harbour to the Lamma Island Jetty; and back, after a 2 hour supper stay. Believe me, it is not easy to get a reservation and for good reason. But on this Saturday night we dined in a spacious restaurant overlooking the harbour and its activities. How could anyone possibly dislike this world of friendship and luxury.
It takes between five and ten minutes on average to cross the Harbour by Ferry. The next day was Sunday, Oct 7th, and so I had planned to revisit some Churches that I had visited two years ago. They are truly dynamic especially in Mission. So I took the ferry to Wan Chai. This is one of the best views and brings shivers to the spine; so much history is evident there. It is the best water view of the HK Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), built especially for July 1st, 1997, where the hand-over ceremony took place.
From there it was a hefty walk to the Methodist Church on Queen’s Road. This was to attend the English speaking service although they have a separate Chapel for Cantonese. On this particular Sunday there would be five separate gatherings; with very few empty pews. I was very early and the first foreign language service was in progress. I waited in a small room where I met a member who had grown up in Mainland China and traveled quite a distance to these services. When the service finally started I could see that Dr. Illsley was still there. After retirement in England, he came to Wan Chai and has enjoyed every moment of those three years. The big change that one can see in most forward looking sanctuaries, had taken place there too. IT electronics had replaced books and Bibles with remote projectors, mobile screens and all around sound. The obvious aspect that had not changed was the welcome, special attention and face recognition that previous visitors received. It truly is a different world.
After the service and saying our goodbyes followed by genuine wishes of; ‘Come back soon!’ I headed out on my second walking leg of the journey to Fortress Bluff. It is a long way, but fascinating. I passed other Churches including a Hindu Temple, and the Happy Valley Race Course. I was near Victoria Park, which appears to have become an immigrant settlement for Muslims over the past two or three years. And I was running late. So I took the MRT and got there in time to meet Michele again. We hurried off to an Alliance Church that was English speaking. Michele and Wendy are active in the Cantonese language Church but they had opted for this service in English for my sake. The interesting part of this series of Churches is that they are located in upscale and active Shopping Malls. This makes a lot of sense for numerous reasons, and was certainly considered in my area of Toronto back in the 80s.
(Let me interrupt to explain something. These four friends, nicknamed in High School, the Si Hua or Four Flowers, are not high profile Professionals by accident. They are incredible organizers too. I know I am lost in the art of mobile phone communication; but they are not. And they are working Professionals who are always under job stress I should imagine: So they utilize their time and my time efficiently and effectively. They have a job to do, and yet there is always one of them on hand to make my stay the best ever. But like several of my friends in China, I describe them as the proverbial Swans; floating gracefully, smoothly and nonchalantly along on a lake surface while simultaneously paddling viciously under the surface. They are truly a pleasure to see in action and to accompany each one of them. They make life beautiful. Now back to the Diary.)
After Lunch, Michele took me on a walking tour to revisit a certain area of HK Island that I requested. Some years ago they had shown me a part of Central, I believe. It was located on the North slope of the Mid-Level West (the harbour side) below the Peak. But my memory had failed me. It was very interesting because the climb was made easier by means of a series of outdoor escalators. We got disoriented several times and as the evening dusk approached we decided to head for the Funicular or cable tram up to the famous Peak. The last time I was there, they had commenced a huge construction project to build yet another beautiful and exciting lookout platform. On the way up, Michele received a call that Jenny had arrived back from Egypt and would meet us at the top. I was very delighted to have this chance to be with them. It took us several tries with errors to locate the lower terminus. When we did find it, the line-up for the train was long: It took a couple of trains before we got on. By this time, Jenny had overtaken us and had reached the summit by taxi.
It was great to meet her again. And we were able to share experiences of respective journeys up the Nile to Aswan and Abu Symbel.
This new look-out at the Peak is very spectacular. From there we can see even more of the tallest buildings in the Central and Admiralty Districts, but the best view for me is the Star Tower and Boardwalk side of Kowloon. We stayed up there for quite some while: Why would anyone want to leave? Very few tourists go to HK without taking in that view. We ended the evening with a great supper. Xie Xie, Lao peng youmen.
Monday, Oct 8th: Yesterday, I learned of another serendipity planned for this day. Jenny had one more free day and had planned to take me to one of my favorite spots; Lamma Island. I had some morning errands so we met at 1:30 pm. We took the ferry over to Central and then caught a bus all through the western part of HK Island. This was new to me. We arrived at a newly constructed city named Cyberport. It had been created to cash in on the new Cyberspace Industry opportunities. Although this seems to have missed the mark so far, there appears to have been a boom in selling the high-cost condos in dozens of towers along the shore road and around the city centre. In the centre of this town, there was a huge convention type business Arcade that was ultramodern and very pleasing to the eye. Unfortunately, progress seemed to have been stalled; even for visitor’s viewing. But I was still very much impressed. Although it was different in purpose, it did remind me a little of the new MaRS Centre in Toronto. There too, one can sense a quiet enthusiasm; perhaps even secret in nature, but certainly supported by contagious confidence and enthusiasm by those involved.
After we had wandered around and viewed everything needed to picture the enterprise and vision, Jenny hailed a Cab which took us to the port in Aberdeen. The initial intention was for me to visit the two floating Restaurants, called JUMBO, for a cup of something. A free flat bottom ferry was resting there empty and Jenny persuaded them to ship the two of us the few hundred metres to the Jumbo Restaurant. Somewhere in between, the refreshment idea was dropped and we raced to a similar empty flat bottom ferry and boarded. They took us to another small jetty where we could catch the ferry to Lamma Island. Unfortunately we had just missed the ferry. Then an elderly woman approached Jenny and started to talk to her! One does not have to know a language to recognize that a sales pitch was in progress. Jenny was protesting. I became interested. Imagine the picture: Tied up side by side were all these small Chinese Junks, perhaps room for 10 to 15 people on a bench seat along each side: Overhead was a canvass covering on a tubular frame; open on all sides. This woman was offering to take us across the water of the South China Sea for HK$100 (About CD$ 14). The regular ferry fare was HK$8. No wonder Jenny was protesting! But I had spent lots already: How could I miss this opportunity. So I said: ‘Let’s go!’ And we went! And what a fabulous experience! It was about 40 or so minutes to make the crossing. But what I had not realized was that once we had motored out of Aberdeen Harbour, we were in the shipping lanes; with Container giants. The route through the harbour was very interesting for several reasons: First, I could see that, in 1988, there was an entire fleet of these small fishing boats: They were permanent residences for entire families with their kids. The decks and lines would be covered with squid etc being dried in the sun. But these had all gone. Now they were replaced, or displaced, by fancy yachts, no different in size (and price) from those in classy marinas elsewhere worldwide.
There was a decent swell on the water as she and her husband took shifts piloting (or captaining) this wonderful little junk. With rhythm, the bow would crash down causing a cool splash with water spray. I think Jenny was a little worried but I promised to rescue her if we sank. What a lie that must have been: She was only one day back from sailing those sleek Arabic Boats at Aswan; and was also proficient at SCUBA diving in the Indian Ocean. But there was more. I think there were three Container ships that passed across our bow: One was very impressive: It was for HONDA. The cross section of containers at the back was nine wide and five high. Fore and aft, I lost count. My guess is that there were two cars in each. It was huge. But more than that, it left a Vee wake behind it that had to be one to one and a half metres high; and we had no choice but to go over both of them. I have to admit that it was like being a kid again.
Eventually we reached Lamma Island at a remote beach with a few fisher cottages and some stray dogs. Once we had disembarked, the couple headed back out to sea to return to Aberdeen. Neither of us knew where we were because we had not been to this part of the Island before. We continued around this small peaceful beach, then headed up the slope and a long flight of stairs, and found a foot path through the tropical vegetation. This path was about half way up the coastal mountain and ran North parallel to the sea on our right. On our left were steep slopes and overhanging cliffs. We were on our own; I cannot recall anyone else on that route. It was so peaceful; and yet so much to see; so much to discover. Even some of nature’s creatures that are conventionally frightening to many can be fascinating to see in this wonderland. I am referring to the common spider, for example. Some of the webs are at least a meter across with the Spider about 5 cm long and the most fascinating colours and patterns. It only took about an hour to find our way to the small settlement that I had described above with its many fish restaurants and free transport for customers from Central. And we saw so very much; flowers and ocean birds; Fish farming etc. We only had about 15 minutes to grab a sandwich and drink before we caught the next ferry back to Central. At Central, we had walked a long way, and were tired! Jenny asked if I was ready for a foot massage as we did two years ago. We had just enough time before we had to meet Wendy for supper. What a relief that foot massage was! What a fabulous and exciting day! This could never have been planned to be so interesting; and a true special memory for both Jenny and me. Xie xie, Lao peng you!
For the next few days, I would be on my own until supper. I had planned lots of places to visit and topics to study: One topic involved Buddhism and the Giant Buddha of Lantau. Another was the Japanese invasion and occupation of HK. The third was a variety of museums that are so unique in HK especially the one associated with Container Transportation. Then I wanted to return to Ocean Park where I had not revisited since 1991: There was something very special and new there. (See you at Diamond Hill tomorrow.)
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