About two decades before the Hong Kong handover took place (on July 1st, 1997), the Portuguese Government had been willing to give Macau back to China, but for some reason, they would not take it. Eventually it happened, in 1998, and became an SAR a couple of years after HK, on Dec 20th, 1999.
Macau comprises two major islands located west of HK, at the meeting place of the Pearl River estuary (Zhu Jiang Kou) and the South China Sea. The northern island is called Macau; the southern one, Tai pa. (For the skimpiest of reasons, namely a neck of land 250 metres wide, Macau is called a peninsula. This narrow neck connects Macau to the mainland SEZ, Zhu hai; (another unique, beautiful and interesting city which is also new and a similar founding age to Shenzhen.)
Macau and Taipa are linked together by three super road suspension bridges: The Friendship Bridge (about 4.4 km long); the Nobre de Carvalio (2.5km); and the Sai Van (2.2 Km). This was the first cable stayed Bridge; opened in July, 2005. Taipa Island comprises three areas: Taipa, Coloane, and Cotai. Taipa and Coloane are linked by a causeway which I never really discovered. Macau has an international airport on Taipa, but the single main runway is built on reclaimed land offshore separate from the Terminal. Coloane, I believe, is more of a vacation resort with wide sandy beaches away from the historic areas. It boasts of leisure and entertainment in the forms of golf, horseback riding, go-carting, and water activities.
Those of us with foreign visas have limited border crossing rights with the mainland: If it is a single entry visa, then crossing the border into HK or Macau prevents re-entry into the mainland. There are prior entry options of single, double, or multiple entries but the valid period is restricted. In the early days, mainland Chinese nationals required special permission to enter and settle in the SEZ. Only a relatively limited few were permitted entry. And very few of them were given permission to go to either SAR; none of them permanently. It could also be mentioned that the three cities have different currencies: China (Yuan); Macao (Pataca/Avos: Also called MOP$); and HK (Hong Kong Dollar.) By design, these maintain an almost par relationship, but rarely are they usable other than in their designated territory. (The Pataca is pegged to the HK$) At this time, it was about 7.5 to the US (or Canadian) Dollar.
Pay was quite high; and qualified workers were needed desperately. However, I soon learned that back then, young people, especially from farm villages; and especially from the south-west and poorer western regions, were slipping across the borders to find jobs in the tourism and service industries. It was a tough life for them; the hours were long and the pay, very low. Even as recently as 2005, I saw a small group hop the border into Shenzhen.
But all this had changed by 2007. The regulations have been relaxed considerably: Intercity travel is now very relaxed and easy with high priced modes for the richer gamblers. The reason has to be the economy. It should be remembered that in Mainland China gambling is officially illegal. This applies also to HK with one exception: Horse racing. There are two primary state of the art courses from British times; Happy valley on the Island and Sai kung (?) in the New Territories. (It is at this track that the 2008 Equestrian events will take place.) Their attraction (or addiction) in HK was so intense that gambling has always paid for their entire education system and maybe some hospital services too, I am told. Similarly, under the Portuguese, Casino gambling was always allowed and the centre of that activity was the Lisboa Hotel in Macau (named after Portugal’s Capital.) Even in 1988 we were able to travel by jet boats from HK to Macau every hour primarily for gambling. And the service schedules were booked to capacity every day, seven days per week. Although casino gambling is still restricted in HK, the high life is running 24/7 in Macau. What is more, Las Vegas has moved in, in force. On this visit I saw some 20 of the brand new Casinos with many more under construction. And every Hotel has 24/7 slot machine parlors (called ‘Mocha’). In fact the Venetian Macau claims to be by far, the largest Casino enterprise in the world. (Their slogan is: Asia’s largest integrated resort – where opulence meets excitement.) Macau also has its own Jockey Club. And to service these facilities, the demand for Chinese employees is very large. (Incidentally, Macau is not flat. The hills are steep; and not that easy to climb. But the challenge is great and the views are wonderful.)
It should be pointed out that Macau is still an ancient city over 400 years in existence. It has a heritage of two cultures, Chinese and Portuguese. But in the past I feel that it was run down but still very attractive and fascinating. Presumably because of the infusion of all this cash, the quality of the historic sections, a large area, is now absolutely beautiful and a joy to explore. One can sense it in the attitude of the people and the enthusiasm that you see everywhere. But now everything is open. Whereas the jet boats plied the waters only across the gulf between HK and Macau in the past; things have gradually changed. Ten years ago, there was a river ferry between Guangzhou and HK. Now it has gone: No doubt too slow because of the flotsam that was picked up by the jet engine intakes. In 2005, I was able to travel by Jet boat from Shenzhen (Shekoa) right into Victoria Harbour in HK. This is still true: No more trains and subways! Today, there are 15 minute jet ferries each way between HK and Macau; frequent ferries from Shekoa to HK; and now we can travel by jet ferry from Shenzhen (Shekoa) directly to Macau. And that is not all. The more wealthy players can do the HK to Macau trip and the Shenzhen to Macau trip by helicopter.
Tuesday, October 2nd. This was my final day in Mainland China on this visit. Joe helped me to arrange a hotel in Macau and extended days in HK by internet. It worked out just fine. The tornado had missed us somehow, but we were getting continuous heavy rain. This is never a problem in tropical climates, I find. It seems that I slept through most of it anyway. But at least it was cooling the air significantly. Often, when the humidity comes in big drops and large puddles it can be quite pleasant.
We had gone by subway to one stop short of Luo Hu. It was a very large Mall and we had a great dim sum lunch. We spent several hours in a ‘Baby Store’ where Karen ended up purchasing a fancy collapsible stroller with built-in car seat of German design and engineering; plus a stylish crib bed far different from 20 to 50 years ago for sure. I found this all very interesting by the fact that this relatively small store had found an amazing product niche. Soon to be Mothers and their Mothers visited in earnest and purchased a great amount. This all reflected quite a different society, an affluent society, from the one revealed in the western press. Developing country, you say?
Wednesday, October 3rd. I had finished packing and would be leaving for the ferry to Macau in two hours. Having checked out, I found my own way across this amazing community estate set in this tropical paradise of palm trees, fountains and waterfalls. Now and then they have some of the cutest and amusing statues in bronze. One is of a bare naked toddler walking precariously in her Mother’s large high heeled shoes. At Karen’s and Joe’s home, we sat and reminisced for quite a while recalling mutual friends mainly in Toronto; and mostly over the years in the Language class.
The rain had stopped, so I said good bye to Karen. (I wondered if we would ever meet again. But this thought has reappeared every time I leave the mainland and the people I love.) Joe and I took the special community cab all the way to Shikoa, so I saw again the City Garden Mall, the B & Q store, and the Hospital, and Wall*mart. Soon we were at the ferry Jetty. The next boat was leaving way too early, so I booked on the 2:15 pm. (Y120, $Cd 16.) Then we had a special lunch together and a long talk. Friendships like these are amazing. (I checked my bags for another Y60. This is a wise practice because porters take them on board; stow them where I can see them; and then at the destination proceed to take them all the way to the Customs tables. The jet boat was fast; the sea was quite rough; and the windows hopelessly dirty with salt. The journey took 90 minutes as we passed under three large ‘sky’ bridges into the inner harbour; with a fourth bridge in the distance. Now I was entering a battered old terminal with no map, no local currency, no local language skills, and no idea where the hotel might be. It is a frustrating experience but well worth undertaking, even alone. I was the only one who seemed to be going through immigration in this small office arrangement with only one officer. I laughed as I thought back to the days of the old Lewiston Bridge at Niagara with its one C & I guy and not much enthusiasm to check passports. How things have changed along the Canada-US Border crossings. There were some people lined up outside the door, so I figured they were wanting taxis. However, when several vehicles passed by with no one hailing a cab, I figured that I had figured wrong! I managed to stop one, but the driver could not even interpret the name of the hotel written on a piece of paper for me. A second taxi stopped and put my bags on board. But he too could not read the name. So he let me talk to the dispatcher over his radio. All I learned was that the hotel was not far enough to use a taxi and insisted on unloading my bags. So what now? By chance I could see in the distance a Best Western sign perhaps more than 400 metres away. So I started off in that direction dragging three bags on flimsy wheels along this wild main road with no apparent side walks. The traffic was insane and driving on the left sides (approximately). When I arrived at the hotel check-in, covered in sweat, I was informed that this was not the right Hotel; this was the Best Western Sun-Sun: My hotel was the Taipa, on the next Island. The receptionist was extremely helpful and cooperative. She called another cab, but there would be a 15 minute wait. It came after 30 minutes. The driver could not speak Portuguese but his English was exceptional. We talked a lot as he drove to the next Island. His English was good because his Mother, Brother, and Sister-in-Law were immigrants living in Toronto. Small world! But he was sad that he has not yet been to see them in TO.
The Best Western Taipa Hotel was OK, but barely. And it was clean and friendly. I checked in, grabbed a street map, and then set off for McDonald’s about half a mile walk away. I had seen it from the taxi and, remember, I cannot speak any local language: McD’s is a life saver everywhere because everywhere, they hand you a laminated menu of pictures with English subtitles; and I have yet to meet a server who cannot make me understand in English: And if you order the same meal on two separate days, they remember. They even seem to make it into a game: We are now part of the family. But what is more; in McD’s throughout China, there is rarely a vacant seat. Those who are clearing tables are usually quite senior, so they organize the seating and show you to an empty chair where you join others without any embarrassment. On this particular encounter, I shared a table with a young foreign woman: Of course, you have a choice to remain silent or to say something in English. This woman replied! She was a Filipino, so I was able to ask her lots of questions about the district and transportation. She was a University teacher having served here for one year. She liked it very much. I learned from her that the huge Venetian complex was only a short taxi ride away: So I decided to walk there even though it was nighttime. (Incidentally, we must leave our empty tray on the table. When I tried to remove it and head to the garbage, I was relieved of it. I was taking someone’s job. The teacher said good bye and perhaps we might meet again another day.
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I then set off to the Venetian. Maps can be of little help when they are inaccurate or incomplete. I could see that the Venetian was a huge rectangle located in the Cotai district just south of my Hotel. But as I walked I was in an old dark area of lanes, and no lines in the map. It was not too long before I could see this brightly lit white monster reaching into the sky. It had to be the casino. But now these lanes became narrower with lots of people hanging around quite peacefully. Then there were market like open fronted stores with twinkling street lights. Yes it was easy to be scared and to conjure up the worst: But a few deep breaths and the thought to focus and learn, cooled me down. I was in some old historic part of town. It was very dark, but it had a beauty of its own. Then I came to a huge long and high wall. I soon figured out that it had to be the security wall to a vast compound enclosing the Venetian. It was truly fenced off from all else: There was no entrance from here. In the distance I could see Buses and taxis taking a circuitous route to the white monster. So I set about a very long walk. When I reached one entrance, I was sent away because I was not a VIP with a pass. They did not know that I am not even a nickel gambler let alone a fling player that rationalizes the loss of $100 as an entertainment fee. Ultimately, I found a way in: It is big, big, big: And it is crowded worse than Shanghai’s rush hour Metro. The gaming casino itself is divided into three areas surrounding the Great hall. Each area could hold two soccer fields easily. Around this vast area are dozens of high fashion stores along the Canal Avenue. Everywhere is ostentatious just like the Ad said. These stores line three canals with singing Gondoliers. The ski is blue and brilliant with fluffy clouds. But this is an illusion. It is all indoors. The skies are false and the daylight is flood light! You can wander around and cross the canals on small bridges: One area has the hugest Food court imaginable, but it specializes in fast, Junk food. In another area is a replica of the original St. Mark’s Square complete with Campanile; and the Cathedral Façade with the four Horses.
The second construction phase is yet to be completed. There is a lot more to come. (Incidentally, the Casino will only accept local Pataca money.) There were many more experiences and excitement; but let’s move on. I wandered around for a few hours more and I was intrigued. Surely some of this creativity could be redirected towards solutions to serious world problems and stalemates?
Unlike Las Vegas, There is no true conglomerate of Casinos. They are spread over both Islands and many have the same names as those in Las Vegas. Each one is different with a unique theme. (As an aside, yesterday (Dec 19th), the new Macau MGM Grand was opened at a prohibitive cost.) To summarize the featured casinos: Near my Hotel was a strange Décor called the Greek Mythology Hotel. In the same area, of Taipa, there were the Golden Crown, Grand Waldo, and Pousada Marino Infante, the New Century and Regency Casino-Hotels.
Thursday, October 4th and Friday Oct 5th. (Yes I am forgetting what I saw and when.) At 6:45 am, I had the meager ‘included’ breakfast. Today I plan to visit ‘old’ Macau’s historical sites. All that I could remember clearly from the previous visits was the façade of the famous Church of Sao Paulo, located on a hill next to an even higher hill with a fortress on top. Although this was the only portion left after a great fire, it had become the emblem of the City. This was certainly one of my clear recollections down memory lane: And I was delighted to be back here, in this not-at-all strange city. I took a cab towards Macau with a woman driver who could speak English. I think she originated in the Filippines. She dropped me off behind the Fortress. The first sight was of a group of Americans who were distributing books. There were many cartons of them. I approached a man who was giving away some Chinese language Bibles to those who expressed a desire for one. We engaged in conversation and he explained that a group of volunteers from Dallas? Texas had come over for one week to take part in this mission.
San Paulo’s façade has changed. It is now cleaned up, and restored. The next phase will be to rebuild the Sanctuary. Below the restored slab floor is the cloisters and a simple art gallery. Many of the surviving parts of the old structure can be seen through glass covers.
There are 25 tourist sites along a meandering main street; many of them are Churches plus educational institutes, a Cathedral, Government Offices, and a theatre. They all appear to be in immaculate condition and recently restored. Even the roadways around much of the central Senatore Square have been converted into a pedestrian shopping area with the latest fashions, restaurants and other attractions: But the most obvious change is the tiling in bands of colour and geometric shapes that must be unique. One senses enormous investment taking place in infrastructure and historical recovery. An interesting spin off is that most places do not charge admission. The exception might be some of the Museums with a very nominal entrance fee; usually free for seniors. But towering over the skyline is this new unbelievable building with the skyscraper hotel portion shaped like a vase of flowers: Tulips maybe. How else can I describe it? But imagination can play tricks! The former Lisboa Hotel has been completely renovated without actually changing it. Two other matching towers had been erected: Now a new Grand Lisboa was rising above everything else. I wonder why they did not call it the Landmark Lisboa because it is a guidance point from everywhere in the city. And at its base, is a spherical casino that overhangs the streets surrounding it: Amazing imagination and accomplishment architecturally. (For those who have been there before; the old Lisboa foyer-lobby still houses that rotunda of ancient treasures in bronzes, ceramics and jade: Great memories.)
Macau is very hilly. Therefore splendid city views occur frequently when unexpected. I won’t describe many of the attractions even though they are certainly worth it; just a few. Perhaps the highest point is Guia Hill: Again the road map was not too helpful. I climbed this narrow street towards the top, only to discover that it terminated in the small admissions parking lot of a hospital. The police man apologized but I had no choice: Descend again; proceed further around the hill, and climb again. Towards the top the street was cobbled with very large stones. I was having to struggle and push down on my knees to take paces. Fortunately there were other oldies struggling with me. Soon I came to a wall with ancient cannons sticking out overhead. I went in; more stairs; and found the ancient beacon lighthouse, the small fort, and a very small church with some ancient pastel murals. I think it was here that I bumped into two young university students who congratulated me for even attempting the climb. (Was that a compliment? I’m not sure!) Under the fort, I saw a man sitting at the very narrow entrance to a cave. It turned out to be a shelter during the anticipated Japanese occupation. I can’t recall the story: Too much info to digest. Afterwards I walked around the hill top found a cable car, and took a ride down. That was when I found an original home of Zhong Shan including his statue. His widow had remained there until her death at 85. Inside I met a group of Canadian-Chinese visiting from Calgary.
I could continue to tell you all about each building and each hill, and the fortress, but I think I liked the Museums the best. Each one is unique in its content and display patterns. Perhaps there were two surprises more than others. One happened when I was trying to find the temple of A-Ma. The map was not too clear and I had in effect passed it on this high road. It was only because I saw a tour bus do a sharp right U-turn that I followed it to the underside of the cliff. It was well worth the visit by far. And hidden away on the water’s edge was yet another ultramodern museum depicting their maritime history. The other surprise was when I walked several km around the inner harbour hoping to reach the new tower with casino. I learned that just because the map indicates a road, it does not mean that it is a pedestrian road. So I had to back-track around the other side of the inlet. I could see the MGM Grand under construction rising from the shore. Now it is open. But next door is a very nice casino modeled on the one in Las Vegas titled: the Wynn.
Its unique feature is this huge circular reflecting pool with about a dozen or more fountains that provide oscillating jets to music in a variety of patterns. It was very pretty and original but not unusual in these days of coordinated dancing waters. Well that is what I thought. I had taken a couple of pictures and had put the camera away. I was walking away, when there was a giant roar and a huge explosion. A local next to me laughed and scolded: ‘You should have waited!’ I turned round to see these huge jets of very dark smoke pouring out of each water jet to form into clouds and then burst into raging flame. The dancing water had been replaced by natural gas and then ignited. I won’t forget that in a hurry.
Saturday, October 6th. This was to be my morning in Macau: Then I would head out to the Ferry jetty for the fast ride to Hong Kong; specifically to meet four other very special long time friends. What a serendipity Macau had been. It will continue to be a place where I want to explore in the future; perhaps in conjunction with Zhu Hai. Just like HK, there is a feeling of freedom there; certainly for foreigners. And I am only a beginner; not even up to Macau history 101. I have been to Brasil; but never to Portugal or Goa; not even the Azores: So much still to see.
(See you in Kowloon in Part 10 of Diary 2007. Sheng Dan kuai le; he; Xin Nian hao. Or literally translated: Happy Jesus’ Birthday; and; New Year good.)
