Photo of the MOMA Site from an area model layout.
After lunch, my Beijing adventure began; we tried to locate by taxi a brand new and different Residential Town within the City. I had happened to watch a program quite recently on the daily PBS show with interviewer, Charlie Rose, and the U.S. Architect who was the lead of a team of Architects and engineers and who together had this radical vision of a town of the future. It was not located where the TV program had suggested; and so we had to do a lot of ‘on the move’ investigation. First we ended up in the SE corner of the inner city where I had never been before. We were at the last remaining part of ancient Beijing’s city wall and its defence towers. We were also surrounded by a mass of railway lines, and even a strange canal-river network. (Never one to miss out on a discovery, Bei fei and I ventured inside the wall and climbed all the stairs. We also discovered this huge wooden structure formerly for housing the battalion of guards. Although it was being renovated, there were also the remnants of an art exhibition.) Even from that height, we could see no signs of this new town. During this time inside the wall, Bei fei had set her staff working to locate some clues of where we were hoping to head. Ah! This new life in a network of cell phones and internet was my first experience of the separation between us older folks and the younger set! Without my knowing it, and conversations in an unknown tongue, Bei fei was already in touch with the representative of the new town responsible for real estate, and Bei fei had received an invitation for us to take a tour. We grabbed another taxi and headed for some spot in the NE corner, unknown to us and equally unknown to the taxi driver. This was no small construction site. There were numerous sites with roads and no-roads piled high with everything imaginable in materials, equipment and huge vehicles. By chance we came across a huge rock in a small Square with an inscription MOMA across it. This had to be the entrance. So we got out and walked in. We found a visitors’ building but every door was locked. Finally we found a Hall with a scale model of the entire site. There we learned that MOMA stood for Museum of Modern Art. Please don’t ask! I still don’t really know the reason for that acronym: It is too complex in International Construction-Financial circles. But the brochures refer to it as The Grand Moma. The point is that this new town is located at the NE corner of the Second Ring Road. In compliance with existing planning rules, the height of buildings within that ‘square ring road’ with rounded corners is limited so that the view of the Forbidden City will never be obstructed. (So they say!) Although the Charlie Rose interview implied that the site was completed, we learned that it would be more like 2008.
It is an ultramodern arrangement comprising seven towers of 19 floors each linked near the top by a loop of glass sided bridges. This forms a horseshoe plan. These bridges, that are described as ‘Strolling in the Clouds’, provide easy access to the ‘club’ and ‘community’ facilities in any tower without necessarily going outside. One bridge contains a complete health club; another, an Olympic size swimming pool. The roof top of each of the seven towers is covered with a garden; all green! The primary Architect, an American, David Noll, created a futuristic and ecologically sound connection. I do not understand much of this theory, but the elevator shafts, and bridges apparently form air corridors to enhance efficient heating, cooling and total air conditioning. The bridges especially will provide space for changing displays of works of art; perhaps even exhibitions of sculptures. There is a two-part theatre, for live and film presentations, which, by means of complex optical reflections can project any entertainment happening inside, onto the outer walls. (I don’t even know what that means! And I’ve seen the models and video sales pitches!) Yet another shorter circular tower is a hotel for guests of residents. On one side of the row of towers, four entertainment areas have been constructed. They comprise: an Ice rink, basket ball courts, a restaurant; and an ornamental lily pond with synchronized musical dancing waters within waterfalls and fountains. These entertainment areas are built into three artificial hills constructed from the excavated soil. For example one arrangement has a sheltered but open air games room and meeting area for a seniors club. The whole area will contain a subway for access to the underground rail station; to the multilevel carport, and a bus station. It will be located on the new direct high speed line, 28 km to the International airport.
The representative, Maggie Lu, gave Bei fei and me a tour of the large project model, also a view of the city model along with the MOMA. This was followed by an excellent film (which had been shown on the PBS interview.) Then we were taken to see several sample full size replicas of the various suites. This was quite interesting because of the creative ideas that had been woven into the layouts and designs. (Such features as expanding door openings, hinges that could be disengaged in various ways, window blinds and glass for maintaining heating and cooling: All ecologically conserving fuel and other resources with solar power; water recycling: You name it. In addition, cupboards and closet spaces were also radical in concept. Then there were new kitchen features as well as newly designed utensils and china sets.) Perhaps the most interesting feature inside and out was the colour schemes.
When we left with our minds saturated with facts and costs, we were given fancy brochures, a DVD, and the feeling that I could never afford any of it. But then, who in China could?
Note: Already, I have been asked questions to compare prices with other cities in China and with Toronto. This is very difficult for me: And I will tell you why. It seems that ‘condominiums’ in China (not Hong Kong) are priced by the square metre; (not square feet). In Jinan, for example, (and probably everywhere there,) the area calculations also include portions of the corridors, stairs, and elevator shafts, plus other amenities that are not truly inside an apartment. Dimensions even stretch to the outside walls. When you buy a condo, what you get are the bare, unfinished walls, floors, and ceilings. For example in buildings with luxury condos with two floors, there is no adjoining staircase; only a temporary ladder. There are no toilets, baths, showers; no sinks in kitchens either and no plumbing; no cupboards, no clothes closets, no light fixtures; NOTHING! Every design we had seen in the ‘sample rooms’ were merely suggestions, or a means of demonstrating such features as heat saving devices and window arrangements..
Very approximately, 10.75 square feet = 1 square metre. Therefore a two bedroom Canadian apartment with approx 1500 square feet would compare with 140 square metres. Remember that the 1500 is yours! The 140 in China includes other general space. For the Grand MOMA, the price is 35,000 Yuan per square metre. That price was quoted in September when 1$CD = US95c. and 1US$ = about Y7.5. or Y35,000 = US$4666 per square metre. I think someone quoted a small unit price of about $400,000 with an estimate to equip and finish the unit using private contractors to be another $50,000. Then they have monthly maintenance fees plus various taxes. Please address all questions to: Someone else.com
After this, Bei fei and I walked along a road through a nearby park with beautiful trees and flower beds. We could see people using the exercise equipment that can be found in parks all over China now. I am sure that in the dawn hours you would be able to watch Tai Chi, and at night, senior dancing. We were pretty silent really as we walked, with only an occasional question to clarify some problem that we were mulling over, or some facts that had slipped our memories. It was quite a relief to be with nature again.
After a while, it was getting late, but still light, so we took a taxi to the 2008 Olympic site. This was the last item on my itinerary for that city. Although the authorities will not allow anyone onto the sites, and a high fence prevents viewing from the taxi or buses, our driver was pretty good. He knew of openings etc, where we could get out and peek through to take photos. We saw the new Stadium for the opening and closing ceremonies plus the field and track events. It is called the Birds’ Nest because that is what the structural steel shape looks like. The blue swimming arena is called the Bubble, because the walls are constructed of a blue material in the form of huge translucent bubbles. This is all located to the west of the former Asian Games site. Then there is a spectacular building, which I cannot really describe, that will be the home of all of the world’s TV coverage. Next to it, will he homes for the Athletes during their participation. We finished the day at a Sichuan restaurant at 10 pm.
Just for interest. Beijing will only accommodate some of the Olympic events. The sailing events will be held in the East China Sea at Qingdao in Shandong. All the equestrian events will take place at Shanting Race Track in Hong Kong’s New territories. Football, (soccer) for example, will be in arenas spread around the Country.
Wednesday, September 12th. Now time is flying: It is hard to recall events, day to day. Before I left Canada, I had contacted those I had planned to meet to arrange at convenient times. In Jinan, I had hoped to meet my good and great friend, Yong jie. But then I discovered that since she got married, she had moved to the suburbs of Beijing, and had a baby. At least I might be able to see her for a few minutes at the station before I caught the Express to Jinan. Then I was told of another serendipity. Jie was going to meet me at the Station with her Husband and the baby. Her husband was staying; Jie and her Son, were booked to travel on the Express with me to Jinan. That was fabulous.
Let me tell you a little about Yong Jie and her family: But only a little! We go back to 2000. During that teaching semester at the Lang Mao Shan Medical School in Jinan, my task was to teach English to a group of 75 Surgeons, Doctors, and Senior Nurses in three classes. (Refresh their English is a better description). There were 3,400 other younger students of High School age who were also resident in dormitories there. They were training to be either hospital nurses, or laboratory technicians. They came from Farms or farm areas. In theory, this was their opportunity to move legally to cities for a career. (You see, in China, they do not really have freedom to live and work anywhere: Cities comprise a single city, plus perhaps 100 or more small town, and invariably more than 1000 villages. This gives a city population of typically 5 to 6 million. Therefore, this is an adequate size to manage every day to day need of a roof over the family, food, and clothing. Years ago when I questioned this policy, it was explained that in a country of 1.3 billion people, if say 10 million were to move permanently at any one time, the result would be hunger and other disasters. Perhaps that oversimplifies the explanation because many millions are on the move constantly. But there are lots of folks who are, and have already beaten the system (so I am told!)
In the long evenings when they were closeted in their classrooms to study until 9 pm., I made a point of visiting classes to take away some of the boredom. We would talk and sing in English. They loved to ask questions all about Canada and my home town. They loved Elvis Presley. And so I made friends with a number of them.
There was one young technician about 16 years old, who was really amazing. She came from a farm, and yet her conversational English was incredible. Most students, when parted from English immersion, lose the ear: But not Yong jie. Her lab was located opposite one of the class rooms where I taught. And she was so good at her lab studies that her teacher allowed her to play truant and join my classes. The problem was that she was far superior to the Doctors who were at least twice as old as her. However, the farm background invariably prevents them from succeeding in a city career without other influence. But it takes a lot to keep a fighter down. There is more to this story, but each time I go to Jinan, I use her to be my translator and guide. What a gem she is! What an ambassador for China. And in some ways, what a waste of an HR.
This beautiful and hot morning, I was up early to take a taxi at 6:30am. So I had time for another very tasty oatmeal breakfast. Bags already packed, we hailed a taxi which took us to the station. The taxi had to drop us way out quite a distance because of lots of on-going construction associated with the Olympics. There were crowds there waiting to grab the taxis as they unloaded. Some official with a flag led us through the steel and gravel materials to the station entrance; but free-lance baggage handlers with their own hand dolly, soon grabbed our bags, strapped them on, and led us to the main hall: For a very reasonable fee. There were crowds at the station too with the usual ‘settlers’ asleep all around on the ground. We waited in the hall, but did not have to wait long until Yong jie arrived with her little boy, Xu ran, and her Husband, Yang. It was really great to see them again. The boy was a real boy, searching everywhere. Jie looked really great: A true Mama and a very confident one as well. Nothing phases her! She is totally organized to the last detail with bay’s supplies, toys and amusements etc, for the train ride..
Even though we were at the older Railway station, this was the starting point for the first ultra-modern train with overhead electrical power. We said good bye to Bei fei: I would see her again when I came back at the end of the week. Then Jie and Xu ran and I headed out on to the platform. It was quite a crowd with baggage and babies pushing through towards the exit. The train was there waiting. It was futuristic in appearance with a streamlined driver’s location front and rear. We were given only a few minutes to find our carriage; Deluxe second class; and to get seated, and we were off on a beautiful, silent, smooth ride; and well air conditioned. Outside was very humid with fairly constant pollution fog. It was 8:11 am. The overhead wires and power arms were not noticeable. The journey was through countryside; pretty, but not memorable except for the feeling that I was going back to my other home in Jinan for a few days.
I want to interrupt the story to share a part of the culture. This is important because we must understand it in order to advance our understanding, and to rethink some negative opinions in our own culture. Let me say it clearly: Any thing or any topic that pertains to us naturally, especially in terms of our bodies and bodily functions, are totally ‘open’ and acceptable in that society. Nothing it seems, is tabu nor embarrassing. So why should it be? Oh, if only that were true in the west. Where did we go wrong? Everywhere, babies tend to be a continual problem; with loud crying, screaming, laughter, and wetting (freely and often). In this matter, the diaper is really not used. They rarely wear them towards their first year. And as they run around in the aisle of the train, they relieve themselves. So what! Well your hand baggage might be close by. A quick word of warning to a staff member brings forth a mop and vessel, and all is gone. There are no negative comments at all. Young Mothers, proud and happy, move around sharing stories and even swapping babies for a few moments. And breast feeding them happens so skillfully and inconspicuously in some very crowded situations, just stooped against a wall.
The engine was shaped like the high speed French and German versions. Each carriage carried a digital speedometer which displayed the speed at regular short intervals plus some Chinese characters. The maximum speed was 206 km/hour which I noticed near Shandong.
Just look at the performance: There are four of these journeys each way each day. They are called the D express. #D35 pulled out silently at 08:11 am. There would be only one stop at Dezhou for only 3 minutes when we crossed into Shandong province. No hanging around for goodbyes with that timetable. The arrival time in Jinan was scheduled for 11:34 am. This maximum speed was reached at several places on the journey and probably where the long, straight rail sections occurred. The rails were continuous, so there was no old fashioned wheel clicking rhythm. We covered the 495 km in 3 hours 24 min, including the stop; for an average speed of 145.6 km/hr. That is incredible! (Especially for a developing country!) I must try and find out more about this performance. I was thrilled to know that I would be returning on this D express train within a week.
(See you at the Station in Jinan in Part 3! So let’s grab our luggage.)
It is an ultramodern arrangement comprising seven towers of 19 floors each linked near the top by a loop of glass sided bridges. This forms a horseshoe plan. These bridges, that are described as ‘Strolling in the Clouds’, provide easy access to the ‘club’ and ‘community’ facilities in any tower without necessarily going outside. One bridge contains a complete health club; another, an Olympic size swimming pool. The roof top of each of the seven towers is covered with a garden; all green! The primary Architect, an American, David Noll, created a futuristic and ecologically sound connection. I do not understand much of this theory, but the elevator shafts, and bridges apparently form air corridors to enhance efficient heating, cooling and total air conditioning. The bridges especially will provide space for changing displays of works of art; perhaps even exhibitions of sculptures. There is a two-part theatre, for live and film presentations, which, by means of complex optical reflections can project any entertainment happening inside, onto the outer walls. (I don’t even know what that means! And I’ve seen the models and video sales pitches!) Yet another shorter circular tower is a hotel for guests of residents. On one side of the row of towers, four entertainment areas have been constructed. They comprise: an Ice rink, basket ball courts, a restaurant; and an ornamental lily pond with synchronized musical dancing waters within waterfalls and fountains. These entertainment areas are built into three artificial hills constructed from the excavated soil. For example one arrangement has a sheltered but open air games room and meeting area for a seniors club. The whole area will contain a subway for access to the underground rail station; to the multilevel carport, and a bus station. It will be located on the new direct high speed line, 28 km to the International airport.
The representative, Maggie Lu, gave Bei fei and me a tour of the large project model, also a view of the city model along with the MOMA. This was followed by an excellent film (which had been shown on the PBS interview.) Then we were taken to see several sample full size replicas of the various suites. This was quite interesting because of the creative ideas that had been woven into the layouts and designs. (Such features as expanding door openings, hinges that could be disengaged in various ways, window blinds and glass for maintaining heating and cooling: All ecologically conserving fuel and other resources with solar power; water recycling: You name it. In addition, cupboards and closet spaces were also radical in concept. Then there were new kitchen features as well as newly designed utensils and china sets.) Perhaps the most interesting feature inside and out was the colour schemes.
When we left with our minds saturated with facts and costs, we were given fancy brochures, a DVD, and the feeling that I could never afford any of it. But then, who in China could?
Note: Already, I have been asked questions to compare prices with other cities in China and with Toronto. This is very difficult for me: And I will tell you why. It seems that ‘condominiums’ in China (not Hong Kong) are priced by the square metre; (not square feet). In Jinan, for example, (and probably everywhere there,) the area calculations also include portions of the corridors, stairs, and elevator shafts, plus other amenities that are not truly inside an apartment. Dimensions even stretch to the outside walls. When you buy a condo, what you get are the bare, unfinished walls, floors, and ceilings. For example in buildings with luxury condos with two floors, there is no adjoining staircase; only a temporary ladder. There are no toilets, baths, showers; no sinks in kitchens either and no plumbing; no cupboards, no clothes closets, no light fixtures; NOTHING! Every design we had seen in the ‘sample rooms’ were merely suggestions, or a means of demonstrating such features as heat saving devices and window arrangements..
Very approximately, 10.75 square feet = 1 square metre. Therefore a two bedroom Canadian apartment with approx 1500 square feet would compare with 140 square metres. Remember that the 1500 is yours! The 140 in China includes other general space. For the Grand MOMA, the price is 35,000 Yuan per square metre. That price was quoted in September when 1$CD = US95c. and 1US$ = about Y7.5. or Y35,000 = US$4666 per square metre. I think someone quoted a small unit price of about $400,000 with an estimate to equip and finish the unit using private contractors to be another $50,000. Then they have monthly maintenance fees plus various taxes. Please address all questions to: Someone else.com
After this, Bei fei and I walked along a road through a nearby park with beautiful trees and flower beds. We could see people using the exercise equipment that can be found in parks all over China now. I am sure that in the dawn hours you would be able to watch Tai Chi, and at night, senior dancing. We were pretty silent really as we walked, with only an occasional question to clarify some problem that we were mulling over, or some facts that had slipped our memories. It was quite a relief to be with nature again.
After a while, it was getting late, but still light, so we took a taxi to the 2008 Olympic site. This was the last item on my itinerary for that city. Although the authorities will not allow anyone onto the sites, and a high fence prevents viewing from the taxi or buses, our driver was pretty good. He knew of openings etc, where we could get out and peek through to take photos. We saw the new Stadium for the opening and closing ceremonies plus the field and track events. It is called the Birds’ Nest because that is what the structural steel shape looks like. The blue swimming arena is called the Bubble, because the walls are constructed of a blue material in the form of huge translucent bubbles. This is all located to the west of the former Asian Games site. Then there is a spectacular building, which I cannot really describe, that will be the home of all of the world’s TV coverage. Next to it, will he homes for the Athletes during their participation. We finished the day at a Sichuan restaurant at 10 pm.
Just for interest. Beijing will only accommodate some of the Olympic events. The sailing events will be held in the East China Sea at Qingdao in Shandong. All the equestrian events will take place at Shanting Race Track in Hong Kong’s New territories. Football, (soccer) for example, will be in arenas spread around the Country.
Wednesday, September 12th. Now time is flying: It is hard to recall events, day to day. Before I left Canada, I had contacted those I had planned to meet to arrange at convenient times. In Jinan, I had hoped to meet my good and great friend, Yong jie. But then I discovered that since she got married, she had moved to the suburbs of Beijing, and had a baby. At least I might be able to see her for a few minutes at the station before I caught the Express to Jinan. Then I was told of another serendipity. Jie was going to meet me at the Station with her Husband and the baby. Her husband was staying; Jie and her Son, were booked to travel on the Express with me to Jinan. That was fabulous.
Let me tell you a little about Yong Jie and her family: But only a little! We go back to 2000. During that teaching semester at the Lang Mao Shan Medical School in Jinan, my task was to teach English to a group of 75 Surgeons, Doctors, and Senior Nurses in three classes. (Refresh their English is a better description). There were 3,400 other younger students of High School age who were also resident in dormitories there. They were training to be either hospital nurses, or laboratory technicians. They came from Farms or farm areas. In theory, this was their opportunity to move legally to cities for a career. (You see, in China, they do not really have freedom to live and work anywhere: Cities comprise a single city, plus perhaps 100 or more small town, and invariably more than 1000 villages. This gives a city population of typically 5 to 6 million. Therefore, this is an adequate size to manage every day to day need of a roof over the family, food, and clothing. Years ago when I questioned this policy, it was explained that in a country of 1.3 billion people, if say 10 million were to move permanently at any one time, the result would be hunger and other disasters. Perhaps that oversimplifies the explanation because many millions are on the move constantly. But there are lots of folks who are, and have already beaten the system (so I am told!)
In the long evenings when they were closeted in their classrooms to study until 9 pm., I made a point of visiting classes to take away some of the boredom. We would talk and sing in English. They loved to ask questions all about Canada and my home town. They loved Elvis Presley. And so I made friends with a number of them.
There was one young technician about 16 years old, who was really amazing. She came from a farm, and yet her conversational English was incredible. Most students, when parted from English immersion, lose the ear: But not Yong jie. Her lab was located opposite one of the class rooms where I taught. And she was so good at her lab studies that her teacher allowed her to play truant and join my classes. The problem was that she was far superior to the Doctors who were at least twice as old as her. However, the farm background invariably prevents them from succeeding in a city career without other influence. But it takes a lot to keep a fighter down. There is more to this story, but each time I go to Jinan, I use her to be my translator and guide. What a gem she is! What an ambassador for China. And in some ways, what a waste of an HR.
This beautiful and hot morning, I was up early to take a taxi at 6:30am. So I had time for another very tasty oatmeal breakfast. Bags already packed, we hailed a taxi which took us to the station. The taxi had to drop us way out quite a distance because of lots of on-going construction associated with the Olympics. There were crowds there waiting to grab the taxis as they unloaded. Some official with a flag led us through the steel and gravel materials to the station entrance; but free-lance baggage handlers with their own hand dolly, soon grabbed our bags, strapped them on, and led us to the main hall: For a very reasonable fee. There were crowds at the station too with the usual ‘settlers’ asleep all around on the ground. We waited in the hall, but did not have to wait long until Yong jie arrived with her little boy, Xu ran, and her Husband, Yang. It was really great to see them again. The boy was a real boy, searching everywhere. Jie looked really great: A true Mama and a very confident one as well. Nothing phases her! She is totally organized to the last detail with bay’s supplies, toys and amusements etc, for the train ride..
Even though we were at the older Railway station, this was the starting point for the first ultra-modern train with overhead electrical power. We said good bye to Bei fei: I would see her again when I came back at the end of the week. Then Jie and Xu ran and I headed out on to the platform. It was quite a crowd with baggage and babies pushing through towards the exit. The train was there waiting. It was futuristic in appearance with a streamlined driver’s location front and rear. We were given only a few minutes to find our carriage; Deluxe second class; and to get seated, and we were off on a beautiful, silent, smooth ride; and well air conditioned. Outside was very humid with fairly constant pollution fog. It was 8:11 am. The overhead wires and power arms were not noticeable. The journey was through countryside; pretty, but not memorable except for the feeling that I was going back to my other home in Jinan for a few days.
I want to interrupt the story to share a part of the culture. This is important because we must understand it in order to advance our understanding, and to rethink some negative opinions in our own culture. Let me say it clearly: Any thing or any topic that pertains to us naturally, especially in terms of our bodies and bodily functions, are totally ‘open’ and acceptable in that society. Nothing it seems, is tabu nor embarrassing. So why should it be? Oh, if only that were true in the west. Where did we go wrong? Everywhere, babies tend to be a continual problem; with loud crying, screaming, laughter, and wetting (freely and often). In this matter, the diaper is really not used. They rarely wear them towards their first year. And as they run around in the aisle of the train, they relieve themselves. So what! Well your hand baggage might be close by. A quick word of warning to a staff member brings forth a mop and vessel, and all is gone. There are no negative comments at all. Young Mothers, proud and happy, move around sharing stories and even swapping babies for a few moments. And breast feeding them happens so skillfully and inconspicuously in some very crowded situations, just stooped against a wall.
The engine was shaped like the high speed French and German versions. Each carriage carried a digital speedometer which displayed the speed at regular short intervals plus some Chinese characters. The maximum speed was 206 km/hour which I noticed near Shandong.
Just look at the performance: There are four of these journeys each way each day. They are called the D express. #D35 pulled out silently at 08:11 am. There would be only one stop at Dezhou for only 3 minutes when we crossed into Shandong province. No hanging around for goodbyes with that timetable. The arrival time in Jinan was scheduled for 11:34 am. This maximum speed was reached at several places on the journey and probably where the long, straight rail sections occurred. The rails were continuous, so there was no old fashioned wheel clicking rhythm. We covered the 495 km in 3 hours 24 min, including the stop; for an average speed of 145.6 km/hr. That is incredible! (Especially for a developing country!) I must try and find out more about this performance. I was thrilled to know that I would be returning on this D express train within a week.
(See you at the Station in Jinan in Part 3! So let’s grab our luggage.)
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